By Isabella Susino | Adirondack Harvest Program Lead
Taken by Isabella Susino.
As autumn colors are painted across the Adirondack Park, we say goodbye to another amazing season of the summer farmers’ markets. Each week, our markets have been more than a place to buy food – they’ve been community hubs where neighbors connect, farmers share their stories on the growing season, and visitors discover the freshest local foods.
This summer, dozens of local farms and small businesses filled market tables with seasonal produce, farm-fresh meats, artisan cheeses, maple products, baked goods, and other local products. So many hamlets and townships gather together for outdoor market season: Lake Placid, Old Forge, Bloomingdale, Saranac Lake, Ticonderoga, Plattsburgh, Glens Falls, Schroon Lake, and more. We’re sure the farmers markets near you were alive with energy and local pride for their farmers, and we are so thankful for your support.
Now, as the summer market season ends, we want to let you know that some markets transfer inside for the wintertime. Every purchase you made supported farms in Upstate New York, helping preserve the region’s agricultural traditions and strengthen our local food system. Let’s keep the ball rolling and ensure we’re giving back to our local producers through holiday season and into the colder months.
Find winter markets and producers near you
The local food system in the winter continues through farm stands, winter markets, and CSA programs. Be sure to find year-round opportunities to shop local and to stay connected to the Adirondack food community.
Thank you for making this season special by supporting your local farms, celebrating the locally produced foods, and keeping the Adirondack Harvest mission in mind while shopping. We can’t wait to see you at the markets next summer!
By Mary Godnick, Adirondack Harvest Program Leader |
Agritourism can be considered a dirty word to farmers who really just want to care for their animals, grow their crops, make their products, and make a living. Most farmers are farmers because they love farming- the day-to-day operations of growing and selling products, managing a business, and working with a team to bring food, fiber, and flowers to life to share with their community.
In some instances, agritourism has been viewed as merely a marketing strategy by enterprises that don’t genuinely engage in agricultural practices. For example, there are many “farms” being built and purchased to be used as full-time wedding venues with a certain aestheticbut without any real farming activities. Some working farmers see this as diluting the value of genuine agricultural practices and creating a false narrative that farmers are simply entertainment providers rather than skilled caretakers of the land and animals.
The concept of “Agritourism” has been a part of the Adirondack Harvest program since its beginning in 2001, but we have reinvested in learning more about the opportunities it can offer our members in 2020 when we took on the administration of the Adirondack Cuisine Trails, joined an international effort to build an agritourism network connecting the Adirondacks to Quebec, Ontario and Vermont, and began making more meaningful partnerships with regional and statewide tourism organizations.
Through interactions with farmers and various partners, it became clear that supporting growth in agritourism could support local working farms and bring the Adirondacks closer to a more equitable food system. However, we heard a healthy amount of skepticism about the idea that local farms should shift their focus toward visitor management, marketing, and concierge services.
The feedback we gathered clearly showed that if we were to invest more time, resources and effort into supporting growth in agritourism in the Adirondack region, the primary goal should be to sustain and support working farms in their core operations, farming, rather than diverting their efforts into the tourism sector. We found that the emphasis should remain on agricultural practices that ensure the production of locally grown and harvested food and products rather than on creating off-brand tourist experiences.
The USDA defines agritourism as: “a form of commercial enterprise that links agricultural production and/or processing with tourism to attract visitors onto a farm, ranch, or other agricultural business for the purposes of entertaining or educating the visitors while generating income for the farm, ranch, or business owner.”
While not legally considered agritourism, off-farm activities, like farm-to-table dining and farmers’ markets can also be considered agritourism.
Local, small farms diversify their income in many ways to remain agile and resilient in the face of economic and environmental challenges. Givenshrinking year-round populations, seasonal tourism is a major sector in the Adirondacks. With roughly 7-10 million visitors each year, tourism offers local farms a larger customer base to sell to.
Some agritourism offerings can support local working farms by extending their season and providing cash flow during times of the year that are usually quite slow. For example, farms near popular ski destinations may choose to offer special experiences, farm tours, and dinners to take advantage of the out-of-town traffic.
Agritourism also increases awareness and appreciation of local agriculture. People seeing how things are grown, raised, and processed offers a deeper appreciation of local farms and their products, and of the Adirondacks themselves. People travel from all over the world to experience the natural landscape of the Adirondacks, and the food that grows from itssoil, waters, and climate. The Adirondacks has its own terroir that is ripe for appreciation along with High Peak’s views.
So, how do we collectively tap into this?
Because the tourism part of agri-tourism can be lucrative, there is a chance that businesses with a farm aesthetic can co-opt the concept and dilute opportunities for working farms to offer authentic agritourism experiences. Is a lake house rented on Airbnb with three horses in a meadow a farm stay? Does it matter what they call themselves?
Some farmers and small business owners LOVE agritourism. They love to host on-farm events, tours, and welcome visitors to the Adirondacks to get a taste of the landscape and their life. Agritourism can be a solid retirement plan, a resource to turn to during hard financial times, and a way for farms to market their products to a larger audience.
Our view is that we will continue to support our local farms in ways that help keep them farming. And, more people having exposure to small, sustainable, working farms supports the long-term goal of rebuilding a global food system that prioritizes local producers.
If having an Airbnb rental on their property supports farmers’ income, allowing them to afford to keep farming, that is a good thing. We want to keep farms in the Adirondack region farming and cultivating food, fiber, flowers and wood products for their communities.
Agritourism in the Adirondacks Looks Like:
Farm-Focused Markets and Festivals
Farmers’ markets and events that emphasize locally grown products are primary retail outlets for many small farms and producers. Tourists and seasonal second-home owners are the primary customers for many small farms, and farmers’ markets help remote farms connect with these higher-income customers in a centralized location. Efforts to keep the farmers in farmers’ markets are becoming increasingly important in maintaining them as an important part of the local food system, as well as an authentic and high-quality experience for visitors to buy locally grown food and products.
Wholesale Sales
Some farms indirectly participate in agritourism by selling their products wholesale to businesses that directly serve tourists such as restaurants, co-ops, and resorts. By sourcing locally, businesses can attract conscious customers looking to enjoy local and seasonal cuisine. Large regular orders from repeat wholesale customers also help the farmers’ bottom line so they can invest in things like sustainable farming practices and improving conditions and wages for employees.
On-Farm Lodging, Farm Stores & Experiences
Research shows that most tourists want to travel “like a local”. They seek authentic experiences that give them a connection to the landscape and culture of the people who live here. Farms are uniquely positioned to offer such experiences to tourists through on-farm lodging, tours, and special events. These experiences also offer education about sustainable agriculture and eating local.
3 Ways the Adirondack Harvest Program at CCE Essex is Currently Supporting Sustainable Agritourism:
Boosting awareness of agriculture and sustainable agritourism across the Adirondack region, fostering stronger support for sustainable farming and forest practices.
Working with collaborators to increase the visibility of agritourism and agricultural producers in existing tourism promotions. Working with the Regional Office of Sustainable Tourism, many local chambers of commerce, I Love NY, and other partners encourage friendly partnerships that enhance resource sharing and collaborative marketing efforts.
Using events, communications and outreach we bolster agricultural literacy among youth and adults alike, nurturing an appreciation for the region’s natural resources.
When it comes to versatile, yet delicious plant-based ferments, Small Town Cultures is the way to go. Founded by Lake Placid native Cori Deans, Small Town Cultures was built on the passion to heal with plant-based probiotics that are accessible and vibrantly fresh. Small Town Cultures is particularly interested in cultivating a deeper understanding of how to improve the gut biome with fermented foods—a journey that Deans originally started to heal herself from a chronic autoimmune disease when, a self-described picky eater, she had trouble finding interesting and inspired ferments to incorporate into her diet.
Small Town Cultures’ new-school approach to all natural, handcrafted, healthy preserves provides a refreshing take on the way we think of fermented foods. Made in small batches without vinegar or sugar (resulting in uniquely vibrant and fresh flavors) and then packaged in glass, Small Town Cultures probiotics revolutionize the way we eat with simple swaps for things already in your diet. Top your tacos with our fermented sliced jalapeños, pop some chopped fermented Meyer lemon on your fruit parfait, or give some bite to your next burger with their raw fermented red onions. You can treat your tastebuds while catering to a sensitive stomach at the same time, improving both your health and mood through clean, healthy foods.
Deans began creating her ferments initially for her inner circle and then in local farmers’ markets. Now the woman-owned, family-run business has expanded to hundreds of specialty stores across the country. For a location near you, try their “Find Us” locator.
To show you how easy it can be to incorporate plant-based probiotics into your everyday diet, she’s sharing this recipe for a colorful, crunchy salad with a simple blender dressing! Using her Turmeric Kimchi gives it a bright acidity, pleasant funk and the lovely yellow color from the turmeric and carrots to the final vinaigrette.
Chunky Avocado Salad with Kimchi Vinaigrette
Serves 4
Vinaigrette Ingredients:
½ cup Small Town Cultures Turmeric Kimchi
⅓ cup grapeseed or canola oil
2 Tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1 Tablespoon fish sauce
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
Salad Ingredients:
2 ripe Hass avocados
5 Persian cucumbers, chopped
6 radishes (1 bunch), trimmed and quartered
Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling
2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced on the bias
Small cilantro sprigs and crispy garlic chips (see Note), for garnish
Instructions:
1. Make the vinaigrette in a blender by combining all of the ingredients plus ¼ cup of water. Puree until mostly smooth. If your vinaigrette is too thick, gradually add more water one teaspoon at a time until your dressing is pourable.
2. Make the salad using a sharp chef’s knife; halve the avocados and remove the pits. Cut each avocado half in half lengthwise. You should have 8 avocado quarters. Remove the peels and cut each quarter in half crosswise.
3. To complete the dish, in a large shallow bowl or on a small platter, arrange the avocado, cucumber and radishes. Drizzle with some of the kimchi vinaigrette and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Garnish with the scallions, cilantro and crispy garlic chips, if using. Serve right away, passing more vinaigrette at the table.
Note: For the garlic chips, thinly slice 6 large cloves of garlic. In a small cold skillet, combine the garlic and ¼ cup of grapeseed or canola oil. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until the garlic is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic chips to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and season with salt. Reserve the garlic oil for another use.
Interview with Executive Chef & Operating Partner Jesse Badger at the Hearth of Malone
By Mary Godnick, Adirondack Harvest Communication Coordinator at Cornell Cooperative Extension of Essex County
You may have already heard the buzz about the new restaurant in Malone, NY. A small town in the Adirondacks along the Canadian border. The Hearth of Malone opened the doors of its tastefully designed restaurant in May of 2021. Since then, it has become a staple in the surrounding community. The restaurant aims to offer unique modern-American food by sourcing the highest quality local ingredients. The focus of their process is to use traditional and contemporary methods to highlight the best possible ingredients. For example, they use a wood-burning oven and make all of the bread from scratch in-house.
Executive Chef Jesse Badger moved to Malone from Chicago in 2020 to open the restaurant with his partners Darren Gough and Michael Roesler. manager and owner Michael Roesler brought on Executive Chef Jesse Badger, who then moved to Malone from Chicago in 2020. Jesse has over two decades of experience in the restaurant industry, from wholesale distribution to the front-of-house management, to acting as chef de cuisine for Michelin-recognized restaurants in Chicago, Louisville, and beyond. His experience and attention to sourcing local and sustainable ingredients has allowed the Hearth of Malone to live up to its vision.
While the farm-to-table movement is growing nationally, in the Adirondacks there are many hurdles that business owners, chefs, and restaurant staff have to overcome to make changes to sourcing their ingredients.
Hearth of Malone Executive Chef & Operating Partner Jesse Badger, selections from their lunch menu, a look at the restaurant space
I sat down with Chef Jesse Badger after the Adirondack Harvest Festival Open Farm Week (where he hosted a long table dinner at DaCy Meadow Farm) to talk about how he has developed a vision and process that makes serving local from-scratch food simple and economical.
MG: So, why does your restaurant buy locally?
JB: “Well, first off, the quality is usually higher than commodity products, and produce in season always just tastes better. It is also important to support farmers and producers who are good stewards of the land and help preserve crop diversity.”
MG: My understanding is that the profit margin for restaurants can be very thin. I’ve heard that it’s estimated that eighty percent of restaurants will fail in the first five years of opening. So it’s no wonder why restaurant owners and staff are cognizant of cost. It seems that there is a common misconception that because locally produced ingredients cost more per unit that they are more expensive. Do you think using local food is sometimes less expensive?
JB: “Especially here in the North Country, it is impossible to get a better quality maple syrup at a competitive price than what we can get from our local producers. In addition to the price of purchase just being lower, the flavor and sweetness are more intense so we also don’t have to use as much to achieve the same flavor.”
MG: Understandably, the lack of infrastructure at many restaurants for storage and preparation of whole foods combined with staffing shortages, thin budgets, and busy tourist seasons followed by seasonal closures can make buying, preparing, and marketing more local food feel like a big leap. Can you speak to these challenges and share how your team has made buying local food an asset to your work?
JB: “The main challenge of buying local ingredients is just that you have to keep track of many more vendors than a traditional restaurant that probably gets all of their food product from one purveyor, maybe two. It is just the nature of the beast so we work through it by using very detailed spreadsheets for our order guides so we can keep track of what we need and where it comes from.”
MG: Is there anything that you did to design your kitchen space to be conducive to buying and using local ingredients?
JB: “Since we make everything we possibly can in-house, we need more prep space than if we purchased a lot of prepared ingredients so the biggest element of difference for us is the very large wood butcher block prep table in the middle of our kitchen.”
MG: What are some things that have made the process of sourcing and purchasing local food easier for your restaurant?
JB: “Northstar Food Hub and Regional Access aggregate local products from many sources that are too far away to realistically deliver to us as individual farms, but are still within just a few hours’ drive of us. This allows us to cast a wider net when sourcing. Also, we are fortunately at the point now where food producers approach us having heard about us either through some of the press we’ve received or word of mouth through other farmers that are working with us”
MG: What has been the general reaction to your unique offerings in the larger Malone community?
JB: “Generally very positive although we did get some comments at the outset that our prices seemed high, that was mainly because those guests weren’t aware we were sourcing higher quality local ingredients and also incurring more labor cost by prepping them all from scratch in house.”
Thank you, Jesse, for sharing some insight into your passion and work!
If you’d like support in buying more local food for your restaurant or business, visit our wholesale database, and find other resources for wholesale buyers here. You can find hours and contact information to make a reservation at the Hearth of Malone on their website at hearthofmalone.com.
Southern Adk Local Food and Craft Beverage Festival Features Adirondack Harvest Members
Bob Barody of Blackberry Hill Farm and Sanctuary Photo by Paul Post
Recently, the Warrensburg Riverfront Farmers’ Market held its Southern Adk Local Food and Craft Beverage Festival. Adirondack Harvest board member and Southern Region chapter representative Teresa Whalen manages the vibrant market and its events with a heavy emphasis on local. This festival was captured in an article written by Paul Post for “Lancaster Farming” and “The Lake George Mirror” and featured another Adirondack Harvest farmer and board member, Bob Barody of Blackberry Hill Farm and Sanctuary. Read the full Lancaster Farming article here and the Lake George Mirror article here.
